One of the worse facets of the winter season is the loss of readily available fresh produce. With the practice of canning, families can preserve their spring, summer and fall favorites for the entire year – or at least, while supplies last.
The canning process captures the flavor of each season at the optimal harvest time, and allows it to be released at any time.
“Suppose you’re canning strawberries. You go to the farmers market and they’re much riper there compared to store-bought strawberries
,” says John Reese, owner and director of Black Radish Creamery in New Albany. “When they’re perfectly ripe, the shelf life is shorter. (Through canning) you harvest higher-quality produce with more vitamins and more flavor.”
Among the most popular items to can are pickles, peas, tomatoes, applesauce, asparagus, jams and jellies. Contemporary recipes such as honey-peach chutney, spring onion kimchi and rhubarb syrup are becoming more popular, but with the new flavors come new challenges.
“You can’t just can whatever you want,” says Marisa McClellan, author of Preserving by the Pint and Food in Jars. “There’s a safety element involved, and you have to make sure you’re following tested recipes. Almost all jellies, jams and pickles are safe, but you have to be careful with tomato sauce or salsa. When you’re canning, you’re worried about acid levels to stay clear of botulism.”
Clostridium botulinum, the botulism-causing bacteria, may exist in the cells of fruits and vegetables. The addition of acids such as lemon juice and vinegar, along with thorough sanitation of canning implements and boiling, should help fight against the bacteria by removing oxygen, destroying enzymes and eliminating the growth of yeast and molds, according to the National Center for Home Food Preservation.
Pressure canning is the most effective technique in terms of combating potential illness.
“Vegetables have to be pressure canned; they can’t kill botulism because they don’t have much acid,” Reese says. “‘Boiling water bath’ canning is safe with foods with higher acid contents, like fruits.”
The boiling water bath process involves filling sterilized jars three quarters full of produce or sauce, sealing them with lids and boiling them in a large pot for a specific amount of time.
“When boiling jars, the timer sets when the water is boiling,” Reese says. “If I put a dozen jars in to boil, the timer starts when it starts to boil. This is very important.”
The alternative method, pressure canning, requires the use of a heavy duty piece of equipment called a pressure canner. This apparatus includes clamps, a pressure gauge and a vent.
With both techniques, it’s imperative to remember to replace all metal lids and seals after each use. Jars can be reused yearly.
Though recipes must be taken seriously to prevent illness, there is still room for creativity and a personal touch.
“Canning is only limited by imagination,” Reese says. “If it works, you keep doing it. If it doesn’t, you move on. Use different spice blends to switch it up. Use all types of spices with your pickled vegetables. Check out culturally-based canning, see how (others) preserve foods and find new ideas.”
In addition to a creative culin
ary outlet, canning can also be a money-saving mechanism through the elimination of excess.
“You can easily cut down waste,” McClellan says. “Maybe you bought cucumbers and you can’t get to them in time; why not extend the season of summer produce? Instead of having (them) for only a few weeks and having them go bad, put variations on them and have them for the year.”
Those who are new to canning should focus on starting small to learn the process.
“Go to the markets, taste the food and can something you’re going to enjoy,” Reese says. “Make sure to have a plan. Your first year, just do a few things. Jams, preserves, maybe some tomatoes are all great to start with. Next year, expand on it. Don’t put yourself into an overwhelming situation that turns you off.”
And remember: Local farmers markets are your best friends when it comes to canning.
“When walking around the farmers market, talk to vendors about what other vendors have,” Reese says. “We sell jams, jellies and preserves (at Black Radish Creamery), so we develop relationships because we do our grocery shopping there. We get the best so we know who has the best.”
Stephan Reed is an assistant editor. Feedback welcome at gbishop@cityscenemediagroup.com.
Waste Management
Smaller batches make canning even easier for beginners
Canning and food preservation blogger and author Marisa McClellan’s second book, Preserving by the Pint, was released earlier this year.
This new recipe collection focuses on tips for smaller batches and makes canning easier on beginners.
“This book is more about micro-batching and it organizes recipes by season,” McClellan says. “These take a lot less time – less than an hour from start to finish. If you love having homemade jam, but don’t need large batches to get through the winter, micro-batches are great. It’s a big waste-prevention book, and it has interesting and exotic combinations. ”
The recipes for pickled sugar pumpkins, Italian plum jam with star anise and pickled oyster mushrooms are a testiment to the versatility of her canning.
While the practice of preservation dates back centuries, a contemporary take on the process makes for a great combination of new and old.
“Some people say we’re a country that’s not cooking anymore,” McClellan says. “But there’s something satisfying about preserving some fo
od for later. We have it instinctually to preserve and stock up. When you do it in small batches, you can satisfy that urge without going crazy. It’s a modern and accessible way to connect with ancestral heritage.”
And canning is likely less difficult than most people imagine.
“Truly, there’s nothing easier than combining strawberries, honey and lemon juice, cooking it down and storing it,” McClellan says. “It takes minimal skill. People think of it as a high-level of cooking skill, yet it’s so basic.”
Preserving by the Pint is available at most national book shops and online stores, including Barnes and Noble and Amazon.com.
