Columbus meets demand for bite-sized macarons

by

Food+Drink

Bite-sized, a feast for the eyes as well as the taste buds, creamy and crunchy. When looking for a delicious snack that also looks classy and cute, the macaron satisfies every condition.

Not to be mistaken for the Italian coconut macaroon, the macaron is like a tiny dessert sandwich. Gooey buttercream, ganache or jam sandwiched between two colorful, crispy shells makes for a mouth-watering treat. And Columbus residents who find themselves craving one, or one dozen, will be relieved to know there is no shortage of macaron suppliers in central Ohio.

“It’s slowly become kind of trendy, and it’s always been a unique product since it’s handmade,” says Mary Smith, executive chef at Pistacia Vera, with locations in German Village and the North Market. “They’re bright-colored, they’re perfect for special occasions. They’re delicate and really pretty.”

Macarons are made using one of two methods: Italian and French. The difference between them may not be immediately obvious to new macaron lovers, but every baker has a preference.

Both Pistacia Vera and La Chatelaine – which has locations in Dublin, Upper Arlington and Worthington – use the Italian method, which typically results in a thicker but softer macaron. The Italian method also produces the “foot,” or, in layman’s terms, more ganache that spills out of the two pieces of pastry.

Tad Wielezynski, head chef at La Chatelaine, prefers the Italian method because he’s able to produce larger macarons. Most can be eaten in a single bite, but La Chatelaine’s macarons take two to three bites, depending on the customer’s appetite.

“I use everything natural,” says Wielezynski, who studied in Rouen, France. “Some chefs use already-prepped, a mixture already done, or they use almond paste, but I grind mine almost every week.”

Macaron aficionados interested in a different take can pick something up from Patisserie Lallier, a home-based bakery in Grandview Heights. After studying both the Italian and French methods in culinary school in Paris, owner Michelle Kozak decided she preferred the texture and final product of the latter method.

“I use different food colorings and different spices; sometimes, I put in cinnamon,” says Kozak. “I just like variety; I get bored easily. … Macarons are nice because there are so many possibilities.”

Kozak has created a wide variety of macarons, from s’more macarons – complete with a shell that tastes like graham cracker, marshmallow and chocolate – and bourbon-filled macarons for the Kentucky Derby to scarlet and gray macarons for The Ohio State University (dubbed “Buckarons” by Kozak’s husband, Terry Eisele).

For aspiring macaron makers, Wielezynski knows the secret to quality.

“They’re relatively easy to make, but the most important thing in the macaron is the baking,” he says. “You have to leave the (oven) door open, because you don’t want any steam or the macaron will not puff.”

At Pistacia Vera, the quality of the macaron is also measured by making sure the timing of everything is just right.

“It’s a matter of making sure your merengue isn’t too over-whipped, so it’s dry, but not under-whipped,” Smith says. “The merengue is really key in making sure that your macarons aren’t too wet; it makes it look like the shell is sunken in.”

Amanda DePerro is an assistant editor. Feedback welcome at gbishop@cityscenemediagroup.com.

RELATED READS