For the second article in the Tri-Village Magazine series highlighting ethnic food options, we are headed back to King Avenue to check out Bonifacio: Modern Filipino.
Owner Krizzia Yanga grew up in the Philippines and after moving around a lot, landed in central Ohio to be closer to her mother and open a cafe.
She quickly found success turning a former Wendy’s into Columbus’ first full-service Filipino restaurant. Her goal was to recreate the feeling of Filipino parties and bring a social and community aspect to dining.
Cucumber Salad and Purple Rain cocktail. By Tyler Kirkendall.
Her mission can best be seen in action on Thursday and Sunday nights, when Bonifacio serves menu items directly on banana-leaf covered tables and encourages patrons to eat without utensils.
“Traditionally, this style of dining is eaten with your hands,” Yanga says. “It’s a great way to engage with your fellow diners and a tactile way to interact with food.”
Tradition is important to Yanga, as many of these dishes are family recipes she and the staff have tweaked to appeal to a local audience.
The island-themed interior is inviting and modern, with wood paneling, wood tables and a bamboo-lined roof atop the bar section of the restaurant. The tasteful interior is reflective of the food Bonifacio serves – uncomplicated and effective.
I sampled the cucumber salad and chicharron na manok, considered the opposite ends of the indulgence scale. The cucumber salad was bright, simple and fresh. The vinaigrette was unobtrusive and flavorful enough to make the cucumber and tomato pop. Each bite with a sour strip of pickled onion was perfectly balanced.
Thighs are my favorite piece of the chicken, making the chicharron a dream come true. Carefully prepared to ensure that there are no chewy or unpleasant bites, this appetizer is a deep-fried pile of the tastiest part of the chicken – its skin and fat – and was surprisingly light and snackable.
Chicharron na manok, bistek and garlic rice. By Tyler Kirkendall.
For an entree, I tried the bistek. The tender beef came thinly sliced and bubbling hot in a cast-iron skillet, complete with caramelized onions and a soy sauce and citrus braise. A forkful of garlic rice dragged through the bottom of the skillet was savory, sweet, and the flavor was smooth enough to warm the soul.
Bonifacio’s food, always beautifully dressed with leaves, peppers, limes, and other garnishes and herbs, presents like meticulously crafted comfort food from a long-lost relative.
“The best description I’ve heard about Filipino food is that it’s a retelling of our history,” Yanga says. “From the Spanish-named stews and braises, the prominence of soy sauce and noodles from the Chinese, and the Malaysian-influenced curries in the southern islands, Filipino cuisine is a diverse and interesting marrying of many different cultures.”
Easy Chicken Adobo Recipe from Krizzia Yanga
Ingredients
- 2 ½ lbs. boneless skinless chicken thighs
- ½ cup soy sauce
- ½ cup vinegar
- 6 cloves minced garlic
- 3 bay leaves
- 1 Tbsp. brown sugar
- Black pepper, to taste
Method
- Combine all ingredients in a pan. Bring to a boil and cook on medium heat until chicken is tender. Serve with rice.
Tyler Kirkendall is an editor at CityScene Media Group. Feedback welcome at tkirkendall@cityscenemediagroup.com.
