Photo by Front Five Photo
French cuisine is at the root of modern cooking. Its classic cooking techniques are widely taught in culinary schools.
“Most of the training I received in culinary school was based on French techniques and preparation,” says Michael Frank, chef and co-owner at Savoir Cooking & Wine. “French cuisine is very regional and uses fresh ingredients like herbs and vegetables and, of course, a good amount of cream and butter.”
Frank was raised in Dublin and, like so many chefs before him, found his love for the culinary arts while working as a dishwasher at Wedgewood Golf & Country Club in Powell.
“At the time, the chef there was from the famous Greenbrier resort in West Virginia,” Frank says. “He kind of took me under his wing, showed me how to cook.”
Frank continued to pursue his interest in the culinary arts, earning an associate’s degree in culinary arts at the Western Culinary Institute in Portland, Oregon, and a bachelor’s degree in food service management at Ohio University.
Now, with more than 20 years of food service experience, Frank is well versed in the art of French cooking and passes his knowledge on in cooking classes at Savoir. After all, savoir in French means “to know.”
“Cooking for friends, family and customers is what brings me the most joy,” he says.
Frank shares his take on the classic French side dish Swiss chard gratin, which, despite its misleading name, has French origins. Au gratin is a French term describing a dish topped with cheese or breadcrumbs and then baked until golden brown.
“The gratin makes an excellent side dish for leaner meats like chicken, fish or filet mignon,” Frank says.
Frank describes this recipe as easy and approachable, but recommends prepping the ingredients ahead of time, or as the French more eloquently calls it, mise en place.
Swiss Chard Gratin
Ingredients
- 3 pounds Swiss chard, large stems discarded
- 3 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
- 2 white onions, peeled and diced
- 3 garlic cloves, minced
- 6 tbsp. unsalted butter
- ⅔ cup all-purpose flour
- 1 quart of whole milk
- ½ cup shredded Gruyere cheese
- ½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
- ¼ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
- Freshly ground pepper
Preparation
- In a large pot of boiling water, blanch the chard in batches until wilted, about 1 minute. Drain the chard. Squeeze, dry and chop it.
- Heat the oil in a pot. Add the onions and a pinch of salt. Cook over moderately low heat, stirring until tender, 7 minutes.
- Add the garlic and cook, stirring until fragrant, 2 minutes. Add the chard, season with salt and remove from the heat.
- Preheat the oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit. Butter a 10-by-15-inch baking dish. In a large saucepan, melt the butter. Stir in the flour over moderate heat to form a paste. Gradually whisk in one-third of the milk and cook, whisking until the mixture starts to thicken. Repeat two more times with the remaining milk.
- Bring the sauce to a boil, whisking constantly. Reduce the heat to low and cook, whisking often until thickened and no floury taste remains, 15 minutes. Whisk in the cheeses and the nutmeg, season with salt and pepper. Mix the sauce into the onions and chard. Season with salt and pepper.
- Transfer the mixture to the prepared baking dish. Bake in the upper third of the oven for about 25 minutes until bubbling and golden brown on top. Let rest for at least 10 minutes before serving.
Ellie Roberto is an editorial assistant. Feedback welcome at feedback@cityscenemediagroup.com.
