The first delicatessens appeared in the U.S. in New York City in the 1800s. In the 1930s, a recorded 1,500 Jewish delis flourished there. As of 2020, there are about 20 remaining.
In his book Pastrami on Rye: An Overstuffed History of the Jewish Deli, professor and author Ted Merwin writes, “The king of food that was sold in Jewish delis is now available everywhere. You can have a pastrami sandwich at Subway."
However, Katzinger’s Delicatessen is proof that genuine, traditional delis are alive and well in Columbus. And it’s clear the deli isn’t going anywhere soon, shown in the overwhelming amount of votes Katzinger’s received in the 2020 Best of the ‘Bus readers poll as Best New Restaurant. While it has been in Columbus since 1984, a new location was recently opened up in Dublin, Ohio.
Perhaps Katzinger’s popularity stems from the plethora of unique cheeses, meats, wine, local honey, fresh baked bread and colorful menu of sandwiches. And, of course, the massive pickle barrels in the deli attract people from all over the city.
Katzinger’s celebrated National Brisket Day (May 28) with the #65 Rachel & Nicki Got Stuckin a Closet. This is a hot slow-cooked brisket, slathered with homemade sweet and tangy barbecue sauce, creamy coleslaw and Swiss cheese on a roll from Sammy’s New York Bagels. YUM.
Each Katzinger’s sandwich has a story of how it got its name.
- Ari’s Open Door: named after Ari Weinzeig of Zingerman’s Delicatessen in Ann Arbor.
- Mimi’s Melody: named after Sadie Schottenstein, maternal grandmother of Katzinger’s Founder Diane Warren. Her Mimi played piano for silent movies in Columbus.
- Todd is My Co-Pilot: named in honor of a Katzinger’s employee who died at a young age.
- Chuck’s Favorite Editorial: Chuck Stella was an editor for the Dispatch and a wonderful, witty man who once was photographed eating breakfast with two cardboard mannequins in deli T-shirts.
- President Bill’s Day at the Deli: named when former President Bill Clinton visited for lunch on Feb. 15, 1994.
- Ko and Shoogy Special: two college students created this messy, yet tasty sandwich.
Mallory Arnold is an editor. Feedback welcome at marnold@cityscenemediagroup.com.
