Courtesy of Tupelo Honey
Tupelo Honey Southern Kitchen & Bar, located in Upper Arlington, seems to have hit the hospitable Southern-style sweet spot that Columbus residents are drawn to. Its central location gets people in the door, and its emphasis on sunshiny atmosphere and careful preparation make it easy to understand why you need a reservation to get a brunch table most weekends.
“There are so many people who just wanted a local hangout spot that’s within walking distance, (and) you know there are so many new developments here,” says Brandon Cave, the location’s general manager. “More variety’s been great. For us, making quality food is what we pride ourselves in, and that’s something people are always going to respond to.”
As a Southern comfort enthusiast myself, I was excited to put Cave’s statement to the test.
Tupelo Honey’s ambiance exemplifies its theme. Quaint wallpaper, warm lighting, and natural wood-finished chairs and tables made me thirsty for a sweet tea the moment I stepped inside.
Courtesy of Tupelo Honey
The fun started with “Loaded Cracklins.” They’re akin to loaded potato skins like you’d get at a fair, though the potato chunks and mildly spicy sauce on top made the dish leagues better than the sum of its parts.
The potatoes were crunchy, yet starchy and filling. The sauce had a deep, warm flavor that was never overpowering. Even the bacon bits on top were perfectly cooked.
The extra step is often what separates the good from the great in Columbus’ culinary scene, and Tupelo Honey excels in this aspect.
The country chicken and waffles featured a buttermilk waffle, standard Southern-style chicken and sausage gravy, served with an over-easy egg. This dish would have been similar to most high-quality chicken and waffles – albeit with an exceptionally nice cut of meat – if it had not come topped with basil.
The basil added a fresh twist to a familiar dish while still maintaining the charm and balance that is easy to miss with an indulgent dish like chicken and waffles.
“For us, (winning Best New Restaurant) is a big one. That means that we’re coming in here, we’re really doing something right every day,” says Raymone Hogue, executive chef. “For us to take over the hearts, the souls of Columbus and Upper Arlington, it’s just an amazing thing.”
Worthington Tavern
Throughout the voting, Tupelo Honey had Worthington Tavern on its heels the whole month. The popularity of both speaks to Columbus’ taste for quality food and a welcoming atmosphere.
The walls of Worthington Tavern’s patio are covered in faux-flora and should feel like an escape from Ohio, says Liv Driscoll, assistant general manager.
The tavern inside was relatively standard fare: a welcoming environment for a date, business lunch or meal with friends. No matter the setting, however, the food spoke for itself.
Courtesy of Tyler Kirkendall
Driscoll recommended the whipped eggplant, adding that when people see it being served, they ask their server “What is that?” and “Can I get one?”
The eggplant takes on a hummus-like consistency when whipped and is served with warm puccia bread and optional fresh veggies.
It is a fragrant dish with deep flavors, though it’s not heavy. The eggplant blend is smooth, slightly oily and addictive. To add contrast, the coarse salt atop the bread adds an occasional crunch to the chewy puccia.
Driscoll was quickly proved right when a man at the next table asked “What is he eating?” and then ordered the shareable app for his table.
Next came the OKC Smash Burger. Between the tavern sauce, the pickled onion and the soft patties (a key feature of smash burgers), it was hard to tell where one flavor ended and another began. This made for a flavorful, savory medley in every bite.
The man at the next table struck again, repeating my dessert order after seeing the salted butterscotch budino. The soft shortbread and creamy budino was moderately sweet, balanced and easy to eat without taking a breath.
Beyond the food, Worthington Tavern is active in the community, participating in color runs at the elementary schools and delivering buttered noodles to preschool classes.
“I’ve worked in a lot of restaurants in Columbus and I’ve never experienced such a tight-knit group of people who just want to help people and give people the best experience they can,” Driscoll says.
Tyler Kirkendall is an editor at CityScene Media Group. Feedback welcome at tkirkendall@cityscenemediagroup.com.
