Photos by Tyler Kirkendall
FYR Short North has arrived in Columbus, making an already vibrant restaurant scene even more diverse.
Sebastian La Rocca was selected as the Executive Chef of FYR Short North, which is located at the Hilton Columbus Downtown. The hotel is now the largest in Ohio, boasting 1,000 rooms. Its proximity to the North Market Downtown and the Short North gives FYR plenty of competition.
La Rocca is sure, however, that you will not be able to find a comparable meal elsewhere in the city.
He believes that the best way to understand his personality is through the dishes he prepares. His passion and (for lack of a better term) fiery personality clearly show in the food he serves.
La Rocca has traveled much of the world and is a firm believer that in order to properly represent the inspiration or source of each dish, one must eat it from the originators on their home turf.
FYR Empanadas and Pickes - 1
Empanadas and pickles from FYR pair perfectly with a cocktail for starters
Calling the dishes at FYR “simple” would be accurate, yet describing them as such would be doing them a disservice. La Rocca believes that a long list of ingredients tends to distract diners and cover up the power of each flavor.
He believes that sourcing ingredients from the highest-quality providers will ensure better-tasting food. This notion is hardly novel, and being able to harness these ingredients’ full potential is La Rocca’s mission.
He was once celebrity chef Jamie Oliver’s right-hand man at Barbecoa in London, and surely Oliver had some influence over La Rocca’s understanding of the importance of freshness.
Because of this, many of the dishes served at this location can easily be understood by reading the descriptions. This understanding, however, in no way mitigates the tantalizing experience of trying each item.
FYR Salmon Ceviche - 1
La Rocca's carefully tweaked salmon ceviche
La Rocca pays close attention to details and loves to tweak each dish in his pursuit of perfection. The salmon ceviche has been carefully changed since the opening of the restaurant, with the dish now featuring less of its cream sauce, so as to not prevent the flavor of the fish from being overshadowed.
He says that he does not anticipate drastic menu overhauls any time soon, and wants to ensure that if a visitor has a favorite dish at FYR, they can return and relive their prior experiences with it.
FYR Tomato - 1
La Rocca's signature dish
La Rocca’s signature dish is not much more than a tomato, caramelized onions, creamy cheese crumbles and a glaze over top, yet it is hard to believe that this short list can amount to such an impactful bite. The dish is juicy and sweet, yet not a single flavor is overwhelming. It is served at room temperature – another fine-tuning alteration made since the opening of the restaurant – yet it will make you feel as if you are sitting by the hearth in La Rocca’s childhood home.
Fire is obviously at the core of the restaurant. It is the element that La Rocca utilizes to awaken the fine details of every one of his dishes. The various ovens and grills of FYR burn 200 batches of wood per day.
The lineup of cooktops and ovens across the line is quite impressive and displays La Rocca’s attention to detail. You can even catch a chef blow-drying embers below a cut of fish to ensure the perfect char.
Even the ice cream is served with a flame. La Rocca’s pineapple upside-down cake is a spectacle. The ring of grilled pineapple is topped with smooth, subtle coconut ice cream, upon which your server will light aflame a liquor-infused glaze that burns as it cascades over the sweet treat.
The list of beverages offered at FYR is complementary of its quality food. The extensive wine list has been carefully crafted, and its curator’s accompanying selections perfectly match whichever of La Rocca’s dishes you choose for the evening.
FYR Cocktail - 1
The cocktail list is much tighter, yet no less deliberate. Down to presentation and garnish, there is not a drop out of place for these mixed drinks.
The restaurant is hoping to achieve a young, hip, exciting environment. Management say that they are not afraid of the personalities of those on staff, tattoos and all. This is a sentiment La Rocca shares, as he chose to take on this location since it granted him full artistic freedom over his menu.
Everyone involved in the FYR experience shared that they have prior experience in fine dining, yet they find that FYR is far more exciting and novel compared to the finest establishments in central Ohio.
The music played at FYR is a vibrant mix of classic hip-hop, and it never feels overbearing or out of place. You will hear a mix of classic staples from artists such as Jay-Z, but those with a keener knowledge of the genre will be impressed by some deep cuts from lesser-known artists such as Souls of Mischief.
The design of the interior of FYR lends itself, both acoustically and aesthetically, to have a great time relaxing while you are enjoying La Rocca’s mastery of his craft.
Tyler Kirkendall is an editor at CityScene Media Group. Feedback is welcome at feedback@cityscenemediagroup.com.
