Stephen J. Smith, Sr. is an avid cook, raffling off his Hungarian meals for various charities and bringing leftovers to friends and Dublin residents. Photography by Jeffrey S. Hall Photography
Stephen J. Smith, Sr. calls his relationship with Dublin a “love affair,” one that started 38 years ago in 1978 when he accepted the job – then called village attorney – with Frost Brown Todd LLC. Although Smith and his wife, Shelley, lived in Grove City for another 16 years due to obligations with children, he became an active member of the Dublin community as soon as he took the job.
Smith recently decided to begin stepping away from his position as law director for the City of Dublin. His job has afforded him the opportunity to help and watch Dublin change throughout the years, and he and Shelley are candid about their feelings for the City.
“We fell in love with Dublin right away,” says Smith.
After Smith and Shelley moved to Dublin 22 years ago, there was never a question to leave.
“I believe that this is absolutely the best place in the Midwest to live; not just in Ohio,” says Smith. “I’ve probably represented 100 different cities in my career and seen everything, and Dublin is off the charts.”
The Hungarian flag hangs above the Smith kitchen
Smith is outspoken about the quality of life in Dublin as well as the planning that has enabled Dublin to be a successful city, which includes the relationship between the City and all of its parts.
The name Kovacs (KOH-vatch), the Smith family's surname before emigrating from Hungary, hangs in a frame, overlooking the kitchen
“Even though the City is separate from the schools, they have a great relationship. They have a great relationship with our fire and EMS from Washington Township,” says Smith. “At the end of the day, they want the best for our City.”
Smith, a full-blooded Hungarian, grew up helping his mother cook four meals per day and part of that heritage was helping the community by way of cooking. Smith frequently cooks large meals that he says can serve up to 25 people. He brings leftovers to Dublin seniors, friends and families with a sick family member or who are in need of extra help.
“I was raised that if somebody got sick, you prepare a dinner,” says Smith. “You just take the food over. You don’t ask, and it makes you feel good. I don’t want anything in return.”
In fact, when the couple became empty nesters, Shelley told Smith that she was retiring from being their home’s head chef. Smith replied, “Perfect.” He began raffling off home-cooked Hungarian dinners in benefit of Buckeye Ranch, a mental health service in Columbus. Each meal – which includes the main course, hors d'oeuvres and dessert – typically brings in around $1,500, and one such meal feeds 14 people. Smith auctions off his cooking for various charities, though the meal raffles started with Buckeye Ranch. Smith had been on the board at Buckeye Ranch for 38 years, and Shelley is still a member.
“I love being able to contribute a little bit, not just financially to charities, but with my time,” says Smith. “I just happen to love cooking, and I happen to be Hungarian.”
Smith's wife, Shelley, assists him in the kitchen and maintains the role of sous chef. The pair has lived in Dublin for 22 years
In addition to Buckeye Ranch, the Dublin Arts Council, Syntero, the Emerald Club and St. Brigid of Kildare church are among the Smiths’ favorite organizations. One that holds a special place in Smith’s heart is The James Cancer Hospital at The Ohio State University. Years ago, after Smith was diagnosed with non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma, he says The James saved his life.
Smith and Shelley say they are proud of their three adult children, who have followed in their parents' footsteps and gotten involved in philanthropy as well. Laura lives in Phoenix, Andy in Hilliard and Stephen, Jr. stayed in Dublin.
Outside of cooking and philanthropy, Smith enjoys working out and walking the miles of bike paths in Dublin.
Smith tries to use as many authetically Hungarian ingredients as he can, so recipients of Smith's Hungarian dinners know they're getting as close to true Hungarian cooking as they can without purchasing a plane ticket
“We’ve got about a zillion miles of bike path, and that really keeps me sane,” says Smith. “If I’m downtown, I’ll walk down to the courthouse to get lunch and every morning I take the dog on a two-mile walk.”
Although the Dublin that Smith moved into 22 years ago starkly contrasts the Dublin today, Smith is excited for the continued change, particularly the construction on Bridge Street.
“It’s going to be great for our town, I think it will help keep young professionals here,” says Smith. “I can’t wait until the restaurants are open; the rooftop bar. It gives Dublin a whole other opportunity to serve its residents with options.”
Amanda DePerro is an assistant editor. Feedback welcome at hbealer@cityscenecolumbus.com.
Csirke Paprikas (Chicken Paprikash)
Courtesy Secrets of Hungarian Cookery, from which Steve Smith cooks
Ingredients
- 1 onion, chopped
- 4 tbsp. shortening
- 1 tbsp. paprika
- 4 to 5 lbs. chicken, disjointed
- 1½ cup water
- ½ pint sour cream
- Salt to taste
Brown onion in shortening, ad seasoning and chicken. Brown 10 minutes, add water, cover and simmer slowly until tender. Remove chicken. Add sour cream to drippings and mix well. Add dumplings. Arrange chicken on top. For more gravy, add ½ pint sweet cream to sour cream. For veal paprikash, use 3 pounds diced veal in place of chicken.
