“A jug of wine, a loaf of bread, and thou ...”

This verse from Omar Khayyam's The Rubaiyat is nearly 900 years old, but still rings true today, evoking romance as part of the world's greatest social convention – sharing food and, yes, wine.

At this time of the year, a cozy fire, a glass of wine, perhaps some bread and cheese is a recipe for romance, especially as we head toward that most romantic of holidays: Valentine’s Day.

A wonderful way of bringing wine and food together is the wine bar, which features wine by the glass, bottle, and wine flight, and many now raise food to equal footing. Wine bars have been popular in Europe for many years. The first wine bar in Columbus was Spagio Cellars, which opened in 1998, followed by The Burgundy Room in 2003. However, most of Columbus’ wine bars are fewer than three years old. Most offer trendy small plates, encouraging sharing food and wine tasting, perhaps inciting conversation and even romance.

We toured Columbus’ 10 wine bars, noting the wine service, food, signature dishes, and ambiance of each.

The Burgundy Room, 641 N. High St. (Short North), 614-464-9463, www.burgundyroom.net
The Burgundy Room was the first "stand alone" (not a retail wine store) wine bar in Columbus, circa 2003. It is a comfortable, "cozy-cool" place with a loyal clientele. The wine service includes wine flights: four wines, 2 ounces each, based on grape variety, region, or style. The menu is entirely small plates (called "small entrees" or “tapas”) meant for sharing, and many are substantial. Additionally, every menu item is paired with a recommended wine (a 2-ounce taste). Signature dishes include braised short ribs, beef Carpaccio, duck breast, and shrimp and grits.

Luce, 3499 Market St. (Powell), 740-881-4600, www.lucecafe.com
Luce has been open three years, but for the last six months has exploded on the scene with new Chef/owner Alex Rodriguez, formerly of BoMa and the Columbus Museum of Art. Chef Alex has kept many menu items but “kicked them up a notch,” and moved from an exclusively Italian menu toward Mediterranean cuisine. The menu includes small plates and full-sized pastas and entrees, and changes with the seasons. Signature dishes include an excellent antipasto (the large could easily serve four people), “lamb lollipops,” pasta dishes, and a petit filet with parmesan au gratin potatoes, cipollini onions and crispy beets.
The warm dining room and bar somehow feel lively without being too noisy. The wine service includes small pours (3 ounces) and wine flights by maker and region. Chef Alex plans to make the wine list broader and more international in scope.

Marcella’s, 615 N. High St. (Short North), 614-223-2100, www.cameronmitchell.com
Open only 18 months, Marcella's is one of the hottest spots in town, always high-energy and fun. The decor features brick walls, tin ceilings, fans and hardwood floors. There is a very energetic bar scene. Marcella's features Italian wines by the glass, half bottle and bottle. On Sunday and Monday, bottles are 25 percent off, and during the 4 to 6 p.m. happy hour, Marcella's offers 50 percent off everything on the menu and wine list.

The menu features small plates, pasta and pizza, all designed for sharing, as well as sausage, cheese and olive “flights” (three items for $10, five for $15). Signature dishes include chicken giardiniera (entree), veal meatballs and house-cured prosciutto.

House Wine, 644 High St. (Worthington), 614-846-9463, www.housewine.biz
House Wine, open for a year, is more wine store than restaurant, but the cool wine service and friendly staff make it a fun place to visit. The decor is sort of retro store/warehouse, more brightly lit than most, but pleasant. House Wine features the Enomatics wine system from Italy, which houses six white and six red wines at the perfect temperature. Purchase a “wine card” ($20), insert it in the machine, and select 1- or 3-ounce pours of any (or all) of the wines; you card is debited and you are ready to enjoy the wine and move to another selection.

The food is limited – artisanal cheese plates and flatbread (lavash), but you are welcome to bring in a carryout from Cafe Daniella next door.

Spagio Cellars, 1291 Grandview Ave. (Grandview/Northwest), 614-486-1114, www.spagio.com
Spagio Cellars was Columbus’ first wine bar. The food is excellent because it offers selections from the adjacent Spagio and Chef/owner Hubert Seifert. The menu is primarily small plates and Chef Hubert's famous wood-fired pizzas, including the unique duck pizza with hoisin sauce.

Spagio Cellars offers a monthly selection of six red and six white wines by the glass, or choose a bottle from the 1,000-label inventory for a $7.50 corkage fee, waived Monday through Friday from 4 to 7 p.m. A nice selection of beers is also available.

Tutto Vino, 7178 Muirfield Dr. (Dublin), 614-799-9222; www.tutto-vino.com
Owner Raj Hora makes everyone feel welcome at Tutto Vino, a retail wine shop with a small wine bar. The creative wine service features an ever-changing wine menu, “choose your own wine flight” offerings, and no corkage fee on Tuesday (regularly $10). Hora prides himself on fair wine-by-the-glass pricing. Tutto Vino also offers six beers on tap and 35 microbrew beers. The food offerings include small plates, pizza, sandwiches, salads and cheese and olive "flights.” Signature dishes include herb crusted ahi tuna, beef carpaccio, and an assortment of brushchetta.

Vino Vino, 1369 Grandview Ave. (Grandview), 614-481-8850, www.vinovinocolumbus.com
Peter and Laurie Danis, lawyers by training, traded law books for cookbooks and a trio of restaurants, two popular Figlio Italian restaurants and the pleasant Vino Vino, which has shared a Grandview Avenue building with the original Figlio since 2005. Vino Vino is small, warm and comfortable, and features Italian and Mediterranean cuisine.

The menu includes a nice variety of small plates, salads, pasta and pizza, as well as five entrees. Signature dishes include wild mushroom ragu on polenta (small plate); pistachio chicken with orange chili glaze (entree); and the chocolate "flight." a trio of dark chocolate/dark cherry, milk chocolate/mocha java, and white chocolate/vanilla crème brulee. The thoughtfully chosen 100-bottle global wine list is offered by glass and bottle, plus some interesting wine flights. My favorite wine flight is Peter's “Secrets I Keep from my Spouse.” And do not miss the happy hour from 5 to 7 p.m. – all menu items and drinks are $3 to 4 each!

The Wine Guy Wine Shop, 201 Clint Dr. (Pickerington), 614-577-9463; 500 Creekside Plaza, off Mill St. (Gahanna), 614-536-0411, www.thewineguywineshop.com
Craig Decker's original Wine Guy Wine Shop opened in June 2005, and folks from all over Central Ohio visit this wine store, tasting bar and restaurant. The store is large and airy, with a large wine bar in the center between the retail store and the bistro. Wine service includes nine creative wine flights by grape, region, or other theme, plus a “make your own” flight, and corkage fee is $10.

The large menu includes a variety of items available as small or large plates, including spreads like hummus and tapenade, pasta, pizza, and numerous entrees with sides, from scallops and shrimp to flank steak. Signature dishes include lamb lollipops with dried cherry demi-glace and lump crab cakes. The Wine Guy added a second location at Creekside in Gahanna last September, and plans to open a Dublin store (Tuttle Mall area) in early 2009.

The Winery, 8231 N. High St. (Worthington), 614-847-8115; www.thewinerywineshop.com
The Winery, a cavernous wine store and wine bar in Worthington north of I-270, opened in late 2007. The store is large with subdued lighting. According to co-founder Shannon Carroll, the winery offers 40 wines by the glass, nine wine flights and theme wine tastings (with commentary) every Thursday. The winery features 2,000 labels; the corkage fee is $10, but no charge on Monday and Tuesday. The menu features gourmet pizza made with fresh ingredients.

Steve Stover is a contributing writer for CityScene.