Upper Arlington’s Chef-O-Nette restaurant is celebrating 55 years in business. Owner Harlan Howard has only been there for 40 of those years, but obviously has a passion for the business, which began in 1955, and was acquired by Harlan’s father Maborn in 1970.

 

Virtually every UA resident (except a certain sweater-vested football coach) has been to the Chef-O-Nette.  In our technology-driven lives, where everything changes faster than we can keep up, the dated restaurant remains that one constant.

 

Since 1955, the décor is about the same as it has always been, and so is the menu. And, although prices have increased, they still seem anachronistic. There are only a few dinner menu items higher than $6, and they all come with a side salad, potato, rolls and butter.

 

Nostalgia runs deep here. The original Kelvinator ice cream freezer is still in use, as is the original Bastian-Blessing soda fountain.  Clark Bars, York Peppermint Patties, Black Jack and Juicy Fruit gum – all staples of the ‘50s – are still sold from the candy counter by the cash register.

 

Harlan started working at the restaurant in 1970 as an 11-year-old bus boy, and eventually worked his way up to washing dishes. Leaving for Ohio University was his first break from the business, although he continued to work at the restaurant during breaks and through summers. After earning a degree in business management, Harlan re-joined the restaurant full time.

 

He’s still getting plenty of use out of that degree, as the Chef-O-Nette runs on such a thin margin, good management and cost-control are essential.

 

Maborn retired in 1993, and Harlan worked out a way to purchase the business from his father.  After about 15 years of “the daily grind,” Harlan feared he was close to burnout. 

 

“I couldn’t change my hours, so I decided to change my attitude,” he says. Because of this change, he found himself better able to “turn off his business mode,” which allowed him to enjoy life even more, he says.

 

Although the price points are low (one would not think the economy has impacted the business), Harlan says that volume is critical. Chef-O-Nette serves approximately 350 patrons daily.  In Harlan’s 40 years there, that adds up to more than 4 million patrons, so obviously the “regulars” come back time after time.

 

The patrons aren’t the only staples. Long-time server Jeanie Tempio has been there 22 years, but her tenure is eclipsed by that of Peggy Karshner, a 25-year veteran who retired in 2008 and moved to Florida.

 

Peggy didn’t take well to retirement, and called Harlan last year to ask if he would take her back. He gladly did.

 

Although Harlan describes the Chef-O-Nette as “simply a humble diner in an affluent neighborhood,” one of the restaurant’s regulars told him, “Upper Arlington would not be Upper Arlington without the Chef-O-Nette.” 

 

Harlan says the major reward for him is when patrons tell them they’re doing a great job.

 

Former Gov. James Rhodes was a regular, as was a young Jack Nicklaus and Woody Hayes. Today, Chris Spielman and Kirk Herbstreit frequent Chef-O-Nette.

 

Harlan says the restaurant supports almost every elementary, middle and high school in the community, as well as many of the community’s churches, by either donating food for events or money.

 

  “The community has supported us well, we need to support the community – it all evens out,” he says.

 

Harlan likes to cook at home, and prepares everything from scallops to ribeyes to meatloaf.  He agreed to share the recipe for one of his favorite appetizers, which was published in the Upper Arlington Cooks for Champions, What UA Bears Eat school fundraiser cookbook, and is reprinted with permission:

 

Harlan Howard’s “Delightful Tomato Bites”

 

1 pint Campari tomatoes (which are slightly larger than cherry tomatoes)

3 tablespoons heavy cream

8 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese

6 fresh basil leaves

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

 

Scoop out and discard pulp from tomatoes, invert on paper towel to drain (10 minutes).  In processor, combine cream, cheese, basil and garlic; puree until smooth.  Invert tomatoes and drizzle with balsamic vinegar.  Using a pastry bag or re-sealable plastic bag with the corner cut off, pipe cream/cheese mixture into tomato shells.  Refrigerate until serving.

 

Chef-O-Nette

2090 Tremont Center

614-488-8444

7:30 a.m. – 8 p.m., Monday through Saturday