As we flow into summer, our thoughts tend to drift toward travel, and what better time than now to try something different and plan a “food trip?” There are a handful of hidden gems sprinkled throughout the state that would serve as the perfect destination for a dinner getaway, with nationally-known chefs, excellent fare, top-notch service and comfortable settings. CityScene checked out a few and offers up suggestions for some “must-go” places.
Rue Dumaine, Centerville
Once upon a time, Anne Kearney was a young chef with a passion for culinary perfection and “sense of place” in the kitchen. After graduating from the Greater Cincinnati Culinary Arts Academy and working at the popular Grammer’s in Cincinnati, she moved to New Orleans to work as sous chef with acclaimed chef John Neal at Peristyle. She then worked for three years with Emeril Lagasse before returning to purchase Peristyle shortly after the Neal’s death. The chef took Peristyle to a new level, installing a revised menu respectful of Neal’s legacy. Soon enough, the word got around about this culinary talent.
In 2002, Kearney was awarded the prestigious James Beard Foundation “Southeast Regional Best Chef,” and was one of only five nominated for the award in 1999, 2000 and 2001.
In 2004, Anne and husband Tom Sand, Jr. returned to Dayton to be closer to family. In a self-described move “down the food chain,” they established Two Small Tomatoes, an all-natural garden on the Kearney family farm.
In late 2007, Anne and Tom opened Rue Dumaine near Centerville, south of Dayton (Rue Dumaine is the street in New Orleans on which Peristyle was located). Rue Dumaine is an oasis of style in a shopping center and is a must-go for foodies. The dining room is warm and comfortable, with tables and booths, but the clear focus is on the open kitchen, where Anne works her magic.
She describes her “matured” cuisine as an American version of classically-styled French Provencal fare using seasonal and local ingredients; and yes, there is a hint of New Orleans on the menu. Signature dishes include duck rillette crepes with red onion marmalade; a classic Pissaladiere (tartelette) with caramelized onions and goat cheese; steak frites (the “real deal” with hanger steak); braised beef short ribs with Remoulade slaw; and grilled lamb loin with a potato-cheese galette. Rue Dumaine is certainly worth a tank of gas, providing a unique opportunity to experience the work of a world-class chef.
Winds Café, Yellow Springs
The Winds Café is located in Yellow Springs, a quaint little town of 3,665 in Greene County, just 45 minutes from Columbus. Yellow Springs is the home of comedian and actor Dave Chappelle, as well as the legendary Young’s Jersey Dairy.
The ambiance has a homey, country tavern feel, but the food has Mediterranean influences, and is made with a passion for local sourcing, seasonal menus, and made-from-scratch quality (for example, its wonderful breads). There are 14 small plates to share.
Signature dishes include gambas, shrimp baked in white wine/butter sauce with grilled bread (small plate); and entrées including Coquilles St. Jacques, stuffed beef tenderloin, and “duck you can eat with a spoon,” slow roasted duck with savory white beans.
Revolver, Findlay
Revolver chef/owner Michael Bulkowski has an impressive resume, including stops at the well-known Trio and 2001 James Beard Foundation “Best New Restaurant” nominee Spring, both in Chicago.
Revolver is located in a circa-1890 building in historic downtown Findlay, about an hour and a half from Columbus. It is small, seating only 40 people, but the brick walls and white linens provide an intimate feeling.
The New American menu at Revolver features locally grown and seasonally-inspired cuisine, with the producers listed next to the dish. The dry aged beef (try the sirloin or strip) comes directly from a local farmer.
The menu also includes grilled local asparagus with Burrata cheese, 25-year balsamic and Sardinian extra virgin olive oil (appetizer); slow poached farm egg with spring ramps, grilled bread and duck consommé (appetizer); Lake Erie yellow perch with spring pea shoots and potato gratin (entrée); and grilled local New York strip with Anson Mills polenta and wild leek butter (entrée).
Short Story, Granville
The Short Story Brasserie is located just 40 minutes northeast of Columbus. The dining room, in earth tones, is small, warm and comfortable.
Chef Robert Harrison, a Culinary Institute of America graduate whose resume includes The Russian Tea Room in New York City and German Village’s Lindey’s, has put together an interesting menu with American ingredients and French brasserie influences.
Signature items include lobster and black truffle macaroni and cheese (small plate); porcini crusted veal tenderloin with truffle linguine and brandy cream sauce; and sautéed sea bass, parsnip puree and saffron-vanilla sauce.
The Inn and Spa at Cedar Falls, Logan
How about fine dining in an early 1840’s log cabin? The Inn and Spa at Cedar Falls, in the beautiful Hocking Hills, is just a short hike from Cedar Falls, Ash Cave and Old Man’s Cave State Parks. The Inn includes a lodge, cabins and upscale cottages, and its dining room entails a country atmosphere with a wonderful terrace for outdoor eating.
Chef Anthony Schulz’s local, seasonal menu is ever-changing. Some recent specials have included seared wild striped bass, sweet peas, sun-choke puree and herbed, red skin potatoes; twin crab cakes, grilled polenta, arugula and chipotle aioli; and pork loin with fresh peaches, brandy reduction, asparagus and au gratin potatoes.
If You Go …
Rue Dumaine, 1061 Miamsburg-Centerville Rd., Washington Township, OH (just off I-675).
937-610-1061, www.ruedumainerestaurant.com. Dinner only Monday through Thursday, 5 to 9 p.m. and Saturday until 10 p.m.
The Winds Cafe and Bakery, 215 Xenia Ave., Yellow Springs, OH.
937-767-1144, www.windscafe.com
Revolver, 110 E. Sandusky St, Findlay, OH.
419-424-4020, www.revolverrestaurant.net
The Short Story Brasserie, 923 River Rd, Granville, OH.
740-587-0281, www.theshortstoryrestautant.com. Dinner only, Tuesday and Wednesday, 5 to 9 p.m.; Thursday to Saturday until 10 p.m.
Inn at Cedar Falls, 21190 State Route 374, Logan, OH.
800-653-2557, www.innatcedarfalls.com. Dinner 5:30 to 8:45 p.m. daily
Steve Stover is a contributing writer for CityScene. He has served as a guest chef at the Inn at Cedar Falls four times, most recently in July 2009.