CuisineScene
Higher Comfort Levels
Columbus offers plenty of perfect winter fare to warm the palate
Recent research has revealed some of the happiest people in the world, such as the Scandinavians, live in colder climates. Part of that contentment comes from their ability to embrace the winter – the weather, the scenery and outdoor sports.

We should take note and also embrace this bitter-cold time of the year. Even when the weather is frightful, everything can be made better with a cozy fire, a bottle of wine and some comfort food.

Winter fare is a special kind of comfort food – think braised short ribs, osso buco, or a wonderful stew. Or broaden the category to include other traditional, hearty meals, such as meatloaf, a perfectly roasted chicken, pasta and the ever-popular macaroni and cheese. Plus, nothing soothes winter’s chill like a great bowl of soup.

Columbus has a bevy of options to warm up your winter nights. Here are some of CityScene’s top picks.

Braised meats
Some of the best examples of winter food are braised meats, which are “humble” cuts of meat (legs, shoulders), browned and slow-cooked in liquid (braised) to perfect tenderness and flavor, with the added attraction of a wonderful reduction sauce.

Many restaurants offer the ubiquitous short ribs, with good examples at DeepWood, The Burgundy Room and The Rossi. Also, try the kettle-braised short ribs with parsnip-turnip puree, shiitake mushrooms and port wine reduction at L’Antibes.

Other extraordinary examples of braising include the osso buco at G. Michael’s Bistro; lamb shanks at Spagio and Sage American Bistro; Rigsby’s Kitchen’s pork stew with white beans (an occasional special); and, for something unusual, the rich-braised pork belly with creamy corn ragout and jalapeño ketchup, also at Sage.

Meatloaf
Meatloaf is the perfect dish to warm up the palate, and there are many fine examples in Columbus. For more than 20 years Spagio chef/owner Hubert Seifert has featured his mother’s famous version of this dish. Third and Hollywood in Grandview uses beef and pork from Niman Ranch (a San Francisco Bay-area ranch that distributes high-quality, “natural” meat products), to make its hand-mixed, hand-shaped meatloaf. Cap City Diner created the ever-popular “stacked” meatloaf with smashed potatoes.

Betty’s in the Short North, as well as its sister restaurant the Tip Top, offers a huge portion of yummy meatloaf, though you might not be too comfortable if you clean your plate. And now Tasi Café (Tasi Rigsby that is) kicks it up a notch with meatloaf marinara, Fontina cheese (cow’s milk Italian cheese) and roasted Yukon Gold potatoes.

Roasted chicken
Few meals are as comforting as a perfectly roasted chicken, crisp on the outside and moist and tender on the inside. One of the best is Spagio’s Sunday night special, which includes roasted chicken with mashed potatoes and corn for only $9.95. Third and Hollywood offers a slow-roasted, herbed rotisserie half-chicken with herb-mashed potatoes, signature cheddar cheese biscuits and gravy.

Rigsby’s Chicken Valdostano is a flawlessly roasted chicken breast with prosciutto, Fontina cheese, fig and pine nut bread pudding and pinot grigio sauce. And for a special treat, try G. Michael’s Bistro and Bar’s old-fashioned, Southern-style, buttermilk-marinated fried chicken, served with grilled sweet potatoes, Maytag blue cheese braised onion and maple-vinegar reduction – Chef David Tetzloff does it right.

Macaroni and cheese
Macaroni and cheese is not just for kids anymore. Top restaurants all over the country are offering new and increasingly extravagant versions of this old favorite. Tasi Café offers a nice macaroni and aged cheddar with peas and Black Forest ham for only $9. Betty’s and Tip Top offer rotini with house-made cheese sauce with poblano peppers, corn and red onions, also for $9. You can even kick it up a notch by adding spicy sausage for only $2 more. And don't forget City Barbeque for mac and cheese and corn pudding.

Soups
Nothing warms up the soul like a great bowl of soup. Almost every restaurant offers a satisfying bowl of soup as a either a starter or entrée, and most are offered at a great price.

Zuppa, on East Broad and Fourth streets, offers three soups each day from a total list of 23 different varieties, including the always-available Italian wedding soup. A full pint of made-from-scratch soup and homemade bread are only $3.50. Try the cream of chicken Romano, available every Wednesday.

Moretti’s of Arlington offers a quart of soup (Italian wedding or soup of the day), with a loaf homemade bread for about $8. L’Antibes offers a classic cauliflower soup with truffle oil ($7).

Other soup-er standouts include Rigsby's pappa al pomodoro (tomato soup thickened with bread), and the occasional onion and garlic soup; Tasi’s chicken and Amish noodle soup; and Basi Italia’s tomato soup with pancetta and seasonal creamy potato and parsnip soup. If you are not on a diet, consider The Refectory’s pumpkin velouté and Spagio’s pumpkin bisque.

The ultimate comfort food meal
Of course the classic grilled cheese dish provides warmth and familiarity, and Tasi offers grilled, aged-cheddar and tomato on sourdough panino bread. Third and Hollywood offers mini-grilled prosciutto and cheese sandwiches as an appetizer.

One of the most delicate comfort foods is risotto – Arborio rice slowly cooked with broth until it achieves a creamy texture that serves as a perfect platform for almost any flavor, from cheese to chicken to truffles. A perfect risotto is always available at Rigsby’s Kitchen.

Finally, for the ultimate comfort food, carbo-loading, and delicious, wretched excess, try Marshall’s chicken or beef and homemade noodles served over a mound of mashed potatoes. Wow!

Steve Stover is a contributing writer for CityScene.

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