You may never meet a more humble and hard-working couple as Jon and Elizabeth Ko, owners of China Dynasty in Upper Arlington (located at The Shops on Lane Avenue). Following tradition, the Kos place emphasis on making their restaurant as family oriented as possible.

China Dynasty was opened in 1987 by Jon Ko’s uncle Fu-Ting, who was a “Master Chef” in Taiwan. Jon Ko’s parents immigrated to the United States shortly after in 1989; Ko’s father, Ping Ho, served as bartender for many years (he has since retired). Today, Ko’s mother Lien Chen is the award-winning head chef, managing the cuisine of one of Central Ohio’s best Chinese restaurants.

Jon and Elizabeth both began working at China Dynasty by busing tables, working their way through the kitchen and eventually taking over the restaurant in 1996. China Dynasty employees are “like family” to the Kos, and many staffers have been there 10 years or more. Customers are treated like family, too, and it is common to see tables with three generations dining at once, as original customers return with their children and grandchildren.

China Dynasty serves some “Americanized” Chinese recipes found in many other Chinese restaurants. However, China Dynasty stands out because the meats cook in authentic Chinese ovens: meat hangs in the oven and is cooked on all sides instead of sitting in a pot or pan. China Dynasty does serve some traditional Chinese specialties, including a whole Walleye fish (when in season) prepared any of four ways, seafood combination meals, various meats and fowl and a special eggplant in garlic sauce. Vegetables and vegetarian dishes are always available. Chef Chen uses fresh herbs, spices and other ingredients, makes her own stocks and noodles from scratch daily and “puts her heart” into every dish.

China Dynasty features pure Chinese dishes, not Pan Asian, Thai or Malaysian. The kitchen staff prepares food according to strict Chinese traditional standards and is accomplished in the Hunan, Szechuan and Mandarin styles of cooking. The barbecue ribs are full of meat, very flavorful and ultra-tender. Fried items like crab Rangoon or eggrolls are crisp and flavorful, not greasy. The fantastic twice-cooked pork comes with crisp-cooked vegetables and is not over-sauced. And the Mongolian beef is fork-tender and redolent of smoky spices.

The subdued and serene atmosphere makes for a very pleasant environment. Lunchtime service is efficient and attuned to time requirements while evening service, though efficient, is just a bit more relaxed. Extra touches abound in décor and in services. White tablecloths at lunch and dinner are a nice touch. There is also a private room available that can seat up to 100. Special menus and dishes can be created upon request, and even on-site cooking at your home or event location is available. A bonus at China Dynasty is its elegant Sunday buffet: served from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., the $12.95 bargain features 40 appetizers and 13 entrées which change weekly.

Both Jon and Elizabeth Ko say they “put a lot of heart and devotion into the business,” and describe themselves as just two more of the China Dynasty family. Their dedication to the restaurant and their customers is evident by the number of “regulars,” the awards they have received and the quality of their food.

China Dynasty
1689 W. Lane Ave.
614-486-7126
www.chinadynasty-cmh.com

11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday
11a.m.-10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday
11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday