“A boy doesn’t have to go to war to be a hero; he can say he doesn’t like pie when he sees there isn’t enough to go around.”
-Edgar Watson Howe, American novelist

They’re as American as … Well, they’re a staple to which we define American tradition. And we’re not talking just the apple variety.

Pies are woven deep in history, with the first cookbook reference appearing in the mid-1500s, although much evidence suggests the Egyptians, Greeks and Romans indulged.

Originally, the concept revolved around savory, casserole-like pies, dishes that include meats (yes, even partridge!), vegetables and sauces. The sweeter dessert pies were introduced later when the Pilgrims adapted their ingredients to accommodate the berries and fruits introduced to them by Native Americans.

Dessert pies have been a staple on American dinner tables since – ranging in flavors from apple to pecan to key lime, cherry to rhubarb to Mississippi mud chocolate, and everything in-between. The filling choices are endless, especially when paired with a tasty, flaky pastry dough shell.

So whether it’s a lip-smacking crust that gets your plate clean, or the perfectly matched filling, Central Ohio offers many bakeries with plenty of tempting varieties. We dug in to find what it is, exactly, we love about these sweet delights.

Filling vs. Crust
Those who indulge in America’s favorite dessert can be very torn about why they keep coming back for more. According to Carol Thompson, a baker at Peter’s Farm Market in Lockbourne, the selling point is the fullness of the fruit. “That is what brings the taste. It’s just very good pie,” she says.

Mindy Cooper, co-owner of Matt’s Bakery on East Broad Street, concurs that it’s what’s inside that counts. “Definitely, for us, it’s all about the filling. Our pies are both tasty and kosher,” she says. All items in her bakery are parve (made without the use of any animal or dairy products) and under Kosher Supervision of the Vaad Hoir of Columbus (which certifies whether or not a product is, indeed, kosher).

If customary fruit fillings aren’t your thing, you can always opt for the nontraditional. Mama’s Sweet Potato Pies has been around for 23 years. This popular southern dish is unique to Columbus. Marvin Swaine Jr., owner of Mama’s, says you usually have to travel south of Cincinnati to find a sweet potato pie establishment.

Don’t fret, crust lovers. There are plenty who support your cause as well. “Just about everyone else says the filling makes the pie, but my favorite part is a flakey crust,” says Ruthie White, owner of Ruthie’s Cakes and Desserts.

Frank Resch, owner of Resch’s Bakery, says a scratch crust makes his pies special. Peter Sterk, owner of Just Pies, hand rolls the crust based on his own recipes.

And Darlene Johnson, owner of the Suisse Shop, says a great crust seals the deal. “It must be flakey, not greasy and not tough. Although shortening or lard makes a great flavor and flakey crust, the transfat is no longer an ingredient I wish to give to my customers,” Johnson says. “I make an all-butter crust now – after many, many tries – that delivers all I desire in a pie crust.”

Lee Alderman, owner/president of Mrs. Goodman’s Bakery, says it’s a little bit of both.

“Everything is made from scratch, using fresh ingredients. For instance, our key lime pie includes key lime juice from the Florida Keys,” he says. “The recipes have been in the bakery for at least 22 years so they are tried and true, and that’s why people keep coming back.”

Top sellers and signatures
Columbus residents seem heavily favor apples. Many bakeries’ top sellers are of the apple variety – apple crumb, Dutch apple, apple with walnuts and caramel.

Peter’s top selling pies are the Dutch apple and blackberry, but the recent introduction of the Apple with walnuts and caramel may outshine both. Matt’s Bakery’s top seller is apple crumb. And, without question, apple outsells everything at Ruthie’s, as well as at Resch’s, except in the fall, when sweet potato and pumpkin move up the ranks. At Mrs. Goodman’s Bakery, apple and cherry fly off the shelves most often.

At Just Pies, the apple crumb is the most requested, however the shop’s signature dish is a Buckeye pie, a French silk with peanut butter.

The best selling pie at Mama’s is the original, which is made of yams, vanilla and hard-grade spice. “Yams grow differently state to state and we use North Carolina yams, which help retain color and texture of the pie. We also use the most expensive vanilla on the market,” Swaine says. “There is no shortcut to quality.”

The Suisse Shop’s repertoire includes the popular creamy pumpkin pie and a bourbon pecan pie. “It is to die for,” Johnson says of her bourbon creation. “It offers more depth and balance of flavors with the top shelf bourbon.” We’ll toast to that.

Uniqueness
There don’t seem to be many secrets in the Columbus pie industry. Most businesses tout their longstanding reputation and use of fresh, top quality ingredients. Peter’s Farm Market gets a lot of repeat customers, choosing numerous favorites from a selection of about 20 pies.

“We have a couple who stops in whenever they’re driving from Michigan to West Virginia. They will stop in on their way down and then on their way back to get some pies. They just know they like it,” says Thompson.

Mrs. Goodman’s is a family affair, using traditional recipes passed from generation to generation, according to Alderman. Sterk tries to honor as many special/custom orders for his customers as possible.

But the real ingenuity of each pie comes from a simple dash of TLC. “If it’s made from scratch with the best ingredients and freshness, then it will work wonders,” Johnson says.

“It has to be homemade, not frozen,” adds White.

Why we love pies
For many consumers, taste is not the only draw. Even pies should make a good first impression.

Indeed, heavy focus on filling and crust shouldn’t take away from the dessert’s aesthetics and functionality. “A pie is a pretty dessert that can feed an entire family,” says Cooper.

Maybe that’s why we have a longstanding love affair with the desserts. Or maybe it all comes back to the simple, good, old tradition of an American staple. “Pies are made from good fruit from the American homeland. They’re made from the wonderful apples and cherries and peaches from down south,” says Alderman. “It’s the heartland, and the wonderful food resources that come from it. It’s only fitting we use them to make our pies better.”

Of course, with tradition comes nostalgia. “I hear from customers that they like pie because it takes them back and reminds them of going to grandma’s house and having some of grandma’s cooking and pie,” says Sterk.

“Nothing beats a great cream or fruit pie,” Johnson adds. “It just takes you home and leaves you with a wonderful experience with all of your childhood memories.”

- Compiled by CityScene staff.